Problem with engine.

[AudioFunk]

So, I recently have had some problems with my car. I want to thank the mod here for helping me solve my problem. In the end it turned out to be a loose ground. Now I have one last problem. Btw, I've had this problem since I replaced the distributor which I will get to in a little bit. Anyways, my car, a 1994 Prelude with a H23 engine starts up fine and idles smooth at a cold start. My idle sits below 1000 rpm at warm, like 950-850, and when cold 1200 or 1300. Once at operating temp my engine just sounds rough. It sounds like it needs a valve adjustment, but my problem is that once it warms up the idle would get low, low to the point it would shake and want to stall. It doesn't seem to do it when in Park or Neutral. It didn't do it before that's why I think it might be a timing problem since I did change my distributor. Also, once warm my car would start kinda slow. Like the starter doesn't have enough juice or something. Once the engine cools down, like if it goes down 1 bar it would be fine. Idle would stay steady. It seems to run better at night. Might just be in my head lol. Anyways, Idk if it could also be a IACV problem. My friend also has a Prelude, and I noticed when he starts his car, not just his car, but any car, the RPM's would go up to like 2 RPM nice and smooth and drop down nice and smooth. Like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-ppPu6oXdc. Mine starts and it would just go to 1300-1500. I don't hear the engine roar lol. Idk if that could be a IACV problem? Anyways I recorded a vid here so I can show you guys and hopefully you guys have some ideas on where to start looking. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N38W_LX_yck Btw I was going through some speed bumps and the electrical connection from the alternator fell out. I noticed it fell out cause my battery light didn't light up on the dash. Anyways, it seemed to idle better when it was off. I will check it again to see it wasn't in my head lol. I had a CEL for Code 20 Electrical Load Detector. The CEL didn't light up on the dash. One day I just jumped it and it came up. I reset the ECU and no codes for 1 month now. Idk if that can cause my problems I'm having.

[spiffyguido]

Have you set the idle according to the procedure in the service manual now that you've resolved your electrical problems? Sounds like your idle could just be set too low. The engine will run differently when cold because the auto-choke will kick in and change the fuel/air ratios.

[AudioFunk]

Have you set the idle according to the procedure in the service manual now that you've resolved your electrical problems? Sounds like your idle could just be set too low. The engine will run differently when cold because the auto-choke will kick in and change the fuel/air ratios.

Here's another clue. When the connector from the alternator is unplugged it runs way better. Idle doesn't drop low like it does. It runs even better if the headlights are on and the connection is unplugged. So my car runs better when the battery is not charging. You guys think it might be the battery? Once warmed my car starts kinda slow like the starter isn't getting enough juice.

[AudioFunk]

Btw where is the Electrical Load Detector located?

[AudioFunk]

Btw do you think It's time for a valve adjustment? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ay_cT3iKew

[spiffyguido]

I hear a bit of rattle...hard to say for sure over video though. If you're not afraid to get in there it doesn't hurt to check.

I assume by Electrical Load Detector you referring to the voltage pick-up for the gauge? If so, I'm not sure where that is.

[AudioFunk]

I hear a bit of rattle...hard to say for sure over video though. If you're not afraid to get in there it doesn't hurt to check.

I assume by Electrical Load Detector you referring to the voltage pick-up for the gauge? If so, I'm not sure where that is.

I got another clue here. I did a test on the battery with a multimeter and got 12.54 car off. Car on at idle it read like 14.3 or so. Under load it read 12.34 at first then made its way down to 11.94 or so. Lmao. Is the alternator bad? I know It's the cause of my idle. It read 12.04 then I heard the idle change and the voltage read 12.54. Climbed back up quickly, but went back down again. Under load the alternator is not up to specifications. I think I might of gotten close if not solved it. I'm hoping It's the alternator. It fixes my idle problems and a good valve adjustment and ill be good to go. What do you think man?

[spiffyguido]

Anytime the alternator voltage specs deviate from what is listed in the manual as acceptable there is cause for concern. Your alternator is engaging properly, but I would expect to see more volts when it is loaded.

Before you replace your alternator (as these are expensive), take the time to get your battery tested at a shop. Even WalMart does this I think, and it's free. You take the battery to them, and they load test it to make sure it is functioning properly. Sometimes these voltage problems can stem from battery issues, and if they do, it's way easier and cheaper to replace the battery than the alternator.

[AudioFunk]

Anytime the alternator voltage specs deviate from what is listed in the manual as acceptable there is cause for concern. Your alternator is engaging properly, but I would expect to see more volts when it is loaded.

Before you replace your alternator (as these are expensive), take the time to get your battery tested at a shop. Even WalMart does this I think, and it's free. You take the battery to them, and they load test it to make sure it is functioning properly. Sometimes these voltage problems can stem from battery issues, and if they do, it's way easier and cheaper to replace the battery than the alternator.

They opened a O relieys like 1 block away. I will go and see if they can load test batteries.