need help with my 94 VTEC

[nsb823]

I put my beast back in time today i had her started twice with the valve cover off (engine rpm was around 2k) took a little cranking with a battery charger set to jump start a vehicle hesitated then started. Now i put my valve cover on connected the pcv put the battery charger back on try to start it cranks then one time it hesitated like it wasnt gonna start like before could this be because of a week battery? or week gas? the gas is 3/4 full on premium but has been sitting for 8 months. it has a totally brand new ignition system all oem w/ ngk plugs pregapped i know the engine isnt struggling for air because i took my short ram off when i went to start it with the cover off smoke would come from were the valves were is this because its a new rebuilt head and the whole top end is new? im asuming its what goes through the pcv system just want to be sure. what is the cold cranking amp rating for a stock prelude w/ a h22 i know i need a new battery im not sure if this is the cause though. any input is greatly aprreciated.

do you need a jdm disty for a jdm engine? or can you use a usdm?

[spiffyguido]

Not sure of the cranking amps, that will depend on the engine. Just make sure you're getting enough to run the starter well. Boost the car if necessary.

The distributor on a JDM H22 is way different than the one on a USDM H22. You do need the JDM setup to make it all work.

[nsb823]

how is it way different?

[spiffyguido]

The JDM dizzy has an internal coil. The USDM one relies on an external coil.

[nsb823]

ok but i did some further research and the usdm disty w/ ext. coil works perfectly fine on a jdm h22 actually it work better and have a higher response rate

[nsb823]

UPDATE! I redid the soilder inside the main relay it works everytime now so my fuel pumps kicking on! changed the fuel filter. i still dont have money for a fuel pressure gauge having no job and being a fulltime student. but i dont think my problem lies with fuel pressure. Before the ecu was throwing code 9 for CYP Sensore(No 1 position sensor) which its a entire new ignition system except the coil which is in spec. My battery is ****ty i need a new battery definately but now when i crank the car it sounds as if it wants to start its not throwing any codes but when i jump the date link connector its a sold CEL so is my ecu ****? can anyone recommend somewhere to buy a ecu if its bad? i know of phearable.net but can i get a oem for cheaper?
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[spiffyguido]

You mean that your ECU light stays on, no flashes, when you jump the connector?

[nsb823]

my ecu light shuts off after two seconds wont come on at all while cranking but when i jump it its just a solid light no flashes

[spiffyguido]

Honda ECUs are tough little gadgets. I doubt that it is fried. The solid light may mean something else.

You mentioned earlier that you were getting a Code 9. Is the CYP sensor hooked up correctly? You said that the engine sounded like it wanted to start, which means you must be getting close.

[nsb823]

yes i had code 9 and my cyp is properly connected and its a new distributor

[spiffyguido]

Okay. This problem looks to be a tricky one.

Since you seem to have everything all hooked up correctly, I think we can assume that this problem is electrical. A solid ECU light can either mean that the ECU is bad or that there is a serious electrical problem (such as a bad ground or bad main relay). As I said before, the Honda ECUs are tough, so if I were you, I would assume for now that it is fine unless you have a real reason to suspect otherwise. I've seen Preludes sparked pretty bad when boosting, and the ECU was fine. It is, after all, protected by numerous fuses.

Since this is probably an electrical problem, go through the entire car and check all the critical fuses, including the main fuses. Also check that your grounds are good, especially the negative battery terminal. Your car needs a good ground to start.

Here's something you should check: when you turn the key to the 'on' position (don't actually crank the engine) do you hear the fuel pump prime? If not, that's a good indication that your main relay is faulty, or there is some bad wiring to the fuel pump itself (or a fuse is bad).

If the fuel pump is priming, then double check all your distributor wiring. We want to see that you're at least getting fuel and spark.

let's go from there.

[nsb823]

The main relay was one of the problems i fixed last week. I was getting only 2 clicks instead of 3 and the pump wasn't kicking on. so i opened the main relay and re-soldered the board now the fuel pump is priming again (also replaced fuel filter). The distributor is brand new all the wiring leading to it is good. i have removed the spark plugs and plugged them into the wires and set them on the valve cover while cranking. I have plenty of spark (new wires, plugs, dist. assembly, coil is in spec). Also i could smell fuel while the plugs were out i cranked it only a tiny bit to be certain. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge nor the money to get one at the moment. The timing is all correct i have gone through it 3 times. Today I had some time to take a look at it i realized that i forgot to put the ground wire from the valve cover to the body will that cause a no start? Do you know how i can test a map sensor with my multimeter? Thanks for your help its greatly appreciated.

[spiffyguido]

So you definitely have fuel. That's good.

Timing is good.

That means all you need is spark. Not grounding the engine block/valve cover could give you problems. Remember, the negative side of a spark plug flows through the block itself. Make sure the ground wires are hooked up and give it a whirl.

[spiffyguido]

Oh, and here are notes I have on testing a map sensor:

"The MAP sensor is relatively easy to access and testing at the sensor is quick and
easy. Since the MAP is a standard 5-volt reference sensor it is easy to determine
which wire is the input wire.
Using a Digital Volt-Ohm Meter, ground the black lead and probe with the red lead. One wire
should be 0 volts (the ground wire). One wire should be approximately 5 volts
and steady (reference voltage). One wire will be close to .9 volts at idle and 2.75
at Key On-Engine Off."