mystery air pipe

[cucurumbe]

There is a pipe coming off the bottom of the air filter canister that runs along the firewall underneath the upper air filter line that dead ends. Where does this air pipe lead to and more importantly does it need filter air? Thanks again!

[spiffyguido]

Can you send a picture?

If it comes off the bottom of the intake filter housing, it might be there to drain water.

[cucurumbe]

OK guys. I ripped out that monstrosity of plastic pipe and supports that "claimed to be giving air to my motor and put short ram on it. I'm not feeding it with outside air but for now since its wintertime I think I'll be OK. She sounds really good at about 5 grand and you know what that means. It's time for MORE POWER. I remember you talking about DC sport headers and that they are hard to find. I looked at the exhaust system you told me to right now i can remember the name of it but are those pretty much the only choices?

[spiffyguido]

For the header, the DC sports header is the only good choice. I think HotBits also made a header for our car at one point, but that may have been discontinued long ago. If they did make one, it would be good as well.

For the exhaust, you have three choices. You can get a custom exhaust pipe, with the muffler of your choice. Or, you can get a full cat-back system from one of a few companies. The best one on the market is made by Thermal R&D....it's a loud throaty pipe, but the quality is very high. The other (and cheaper) option is to get a PaceSetter cat back (I have one). Not bad for the money. Good sound, and quite quiet until high rpm. Not made as well as the Thermal R&D pipe, but it works.

These days, unless you have the money for the Thermal R&D system, which as I recall is about $800, I think the best choice is to get a custom bend and then finish it off with a high quality muffler. This will cost around $400 usually, maybe slightly more. The advantage being that you get to choose whatever muffler you want, so you have a lot of choices for sound and look.

[cucurumbe]

Nuts!!! The bouncing idle has returned! Today was an especially cool morning so i decided to test her out an see if my idling problems were behind me. Lately when i started her up she would idle between 1000 and 1500 for about twenty minutes ( which i thought was too long) and then drop down to about 800. Not what i wanted but at least now bounce. Today it returned. I already tried tightening the fast idle down as you have talked about so many times and i also bleed the coolant (which did have some air in it and seemed to help). Now what?! I think you said to replace the fast idle control valve. Should i be worried about the ecu or sensors malfunctioning? The injectors wouldn't have anything to do with this problem would they. Oh and by the way i was thinking about removing the injectors anyway and having them cleaned. Good idea bad idea?

So I went to church and came back and started her again. About 70 degrees outside she started up and in two minutes was idling at about 700. Its definitely a cold morning problem1 Please advise.

[spiffyguido]

Sounds like your fast idle valve might be getting unhappy in the cold weather. If you can get another fast idle valve from a wrecker or something, I'd suggest getting another one to try out. Sometimes they just plain wear out. Screwing the plunger back on can fix things, but if its not coming undone, then the other parts of the valve are to blame.

You can check your idle, but if it's idling at 700, you should be fine.

Double check for any codes being thrown on your ECU. Double check for leaky vacuum hoses. Nine times out of ten though it's the fast idle valve that causes the bouncy idle.