H22a1 build advice

[HighOctain]

Hey all, just purchased a new lude off a buddy of mine, 1993, body in good shape, minor mods, picture of the engine and body below. I've decided to take a step further and get her tricked out, so I've been doing alot of research lately and ive narrowed things down to this specific build:

BOLT-ONs

I/E/H :

Skunk2 Pro H series intake manifold
Skunk2 70mm Throttle body
Hytech Replica Headers (Tri-y 4-2-1)
2.5 inch" from header to exhaust
Highflow cat
Apexi exhaust system.
Cold air intake

Drivetrain:

Clutch masters Fx 200/300 stage 2 clutch system
Clutch masters billet aluminum Flywheel

ENGINE:

Cams:

Skunk2 pro 1 cams (Intake: duration 255, Lift 0.475)(Exhaust: duration 255, Lift 0.436)
Skunk2 adjustable cam gears

Valvetrain:

Skunk2 valve set
Skunk2 Titanium retainers
Skunk2 Spring set
Skunk2 Spring base kit

Fuel:

Venom injectors (still researching the most effective injectors for this build)
stock fuel pump

And I was THINKING of going with the almighty type S pistons, as I hear with the upgraded compression they really "bring out the color of your cams" so to speak, lol. But it seems like quite an expense for a minor increase in power.

My question is this. I'm not a big time car mechanic, but i'm not a retard either, how plausible is this build for a daily driver with the occasional street race here and there, is there anything a more professional engine builder would decide to use as opposed to what i have chosen, is there anything that should be added that i might have overlooked, also, what fuel injectors do you think would do justice to this set-up as is? basically, any feedback is welcome, would like to understand the full picture before i go on the "big shop"

thanks for your support

J

heres my sweetie


few knicks and knacks

[spiffyguido]

First of all, it is completely possible to build a weekend autocross car that can be used as a daily driver. Many people do that.

The parts you have selected (to my knowledge) are all good quality bolt on parts. Some of them will yield some small performance gains for you. Regarding the injectors: choosing injectors really comes down to the tune that you are running. If you are not running forced induction and haven't changed the ECU, you probably won't need injectors that are larger than the stock ones. Slightly larger may help power a bit, but if you go too large you'll just be wasting fuel.

When building a performance car, one step that a lot of people miss is time on a dyno. After you get your parts installed, take the car to a real dyno shop and do some runs on the dyno while you adjust timing, etc. This is where you find your power. If you can afford it, it's not a bad idea to do a dyno run before you make any modifications so that you have a good baseline to compare against.

The other thing that I always tell people is to think seriously about weight reduction. Most people immediately start working on their engines when they need to go faster, but often the cheapest performance gains can be had by just losing extra weight. Want to make your car accelerate faster? Put lighter rims on it. Lose the back seat (if you won't be needing it for daily driving) and trunk carpet. etc. etc.

Get out your calculator and do the power-to-weight ratio for you car. Then calculate the ratio changes of your horsepower gains and compare them to ratio changes related to weight loss. It's by doing this that you can find where you can get the most bang for your buck.