Intake and head removal

Third Generation Honda Prelude topics

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ns_wrestler130
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Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:44 pm

Intake and head removal

Post by ns_wrestler130 »

Im stuck at the moment, I have everything off an out of the way to remove the head, except the intake manifold. I have all the nuts off the studs holding the manifold to the head, im stuck because of the stupid bracket supporting the manifold underneath that is bolted to the block. Im hoping someone who has done this before has a piece of advice for an easy way to get the intake manifold out of the way so i can get this head off.

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spiffyguido
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Joined: Fri Nov 11, 2005 2:55 am
Prelude Model: 1991 SE-SR
Location: Alberta, Canada
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Re: Intake and head removal

Post by spiffyguido »

I've been stuck at that point before.

When I went through this process I believe I just ended up taking the bracket off, or at least unbolting it from the manifold. Unbolting it from the block won't do any harm, as the bracket is mostly there to support the load of the intake manifold.

ns_wrestler130
Lude Dude
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2010 7:44 pm

Re: Intake and head removal

Post by ns_wrestler130 »

I finally got it, i was having major issues with reaching the bolts. I found that if you do it from underneath you can easily get to the bolts on the manifold with a long extension. So i lost a lot of sweat and skin for nothing, but no worries, it happens as we learn new vehicles. It is something i will not forgot about my little prelude. Ok, now i have a bigger question. The engine is definitely ready for a rebuild, the cylinder walls look very good, but are worn and can use to be honed and rebuilt. I know that the FRM sleeves require a special technique to hone but i use a very good machine shop so no worries there. I am very new to hondas and have a question. I know that it would be much better to use all honda internals, but at this time i dont have the money for that, im 22, a full time college student, work full time and have a wife and two kids, money for my car is not in abundant supply until i finish school. I know that honda color codes the main and rod bearings, i think cam bearings as well. Since i can not afford to use honda internals, how will i know whether or not i want STD .010 or .020 bearings. I can use a micrometer once i have everything fully torn apart. This is my first honda engine so bear with me, color coded bearing are entirely new to me. Also after i get my new bearing, does anyone know the oil clearance on the main and rod bearings. I am having trouble finding the specs anywhere. Also what is standard size for the main and rod journals on the crank so i can mic that out and figure out which bearing i need. I know I am asking a lot, just trying to get all the answers i can from people who have done it before as this is my first honda rebuild, and if i do it wrong my lude will be sitting a long time until i have money again. I have several chevy and dodge small blocks before so i think i will be ok tackling this project. Thanks in advance for anyones help.

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spiffyguido
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Posts: 2196
Joined: Fri Nov 11, 2005 2:55 am
Prelude Model: 1991 SE-SR
Location: Alberta, Canada
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Re: Intake and head removal

Post by spiffyguido »

First, get yourself over to www.hondaautomotiveparts.com. It's a great place for cheap OEM Honda parts. I know money can be tight as a student (I've been there), but I still have to suggest that you use Honda internals. They really are worth the money.

Regarding the bearing sizes: In their infinite wisdom, I believe that Honda actually stamps the engine with the bearing sizes that it needs. I've seen these stamps before, but I'm having a really hard time recalling where the stamps are. Have a poke around your engine and see what you can find. If you don't see anything, let me know and I'll go and look at a B20A5 that I have torn down in my garage right now for clues. If all else fails, you should be able to tell the bearing sizes from looking at the ones you pull out (be sure to remember the order). When I took some bearings out, the color of the bearing was still visible on some of them.

I'm not sure about the oil clearances. Check in the service manual (see manuals section), although I don't recall seeing them in there. Otherwise, give Honda a call and just ask a mechanic. You should be able to sweet talk the spec out of them. Once you have the clearance, its a simple matter of using a plastigauge to make sure all is right when you reassemble everything. Have a read in the 2nd generation shop manual for more on this, as it is more detailed (though the specs aren't relevant to the 3rd gen).

Here are some pics of my torn down engine, if it helps at all. At lease you can see all the parts fully exploded:

http://picasaweb.google.ca/harleyc/Proj ... directlink

Oh yeah, one more thing.

DON'T HONE THE FRM WALLS! I believe the correct procedure for refinishing FRM cylinder walls actually involves some sanding, but I'm not sure of the exact procedure. Honda doesn't use a honing procedure to resurface FRM because it is far too robust. I'm quite surprised that it will need resurfacing at all. Many people have reported still seeing the factory cross-hatching in the FRM walls after 100,000 miles.



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